Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Punta Arenas

Michael:

For the first time Beverly and I went on different excursions today so here I am with trusty report number one.  My excursion was called  “The Tycoons of Patagonia,” and began with a sightseeing drive around the bustling frontier town of Punta Arenas, capital of the Magellanes Region.  This is the southernmost city in the world situated on the Strait of Magellan, and home to 140,000 persons.

Surprisingly, our first stop was Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun, or as it is known locally, the Pioneer Cemetery.  It was unbelievable -- thousands of graves and thousands more mausoleums including a number of family vaults for the super rich, some bigger then homes, and truly works of art.  Interestingly, this was the first ecumenical cemetery in all of Chile and not opened until 1894.  Prior to that only Catholics could be buried in Chile … so it makes you wonder.  The cemetery was planted with hundreds of tall cypress trees and just beautiful.
















Next, we drove to Cerro La Cruz, a viewpoint over the city and the Strait of Magellan, the port and the legendary Tierra del Fuego Island, once home to the Fireland natives.  We went back to town and parked at the plaza de Armas, the main square.  We visited the Braun-Menendez Mansion, built in 1906, and a beautifully preserved example of how affluent families lived at the turn of the 20th century.  Returning to the square we saw the statue of the native Bigfoot Indian, and believe me he had a really big foot!








Our final stop was an old warehouse, now refurbished, where we got to watch a sheep shearing show and learn a little about the agricultural history of Patagonia.  It was then back to the ship for lunch.



Beverly:

OK folks, I don’t get it.  The air temperature is cool, but the buses are sooooo hot and stuffy.  Windows, windows are meant to open to let in fresh air.  We are sitting on the bus fanning ourselves and the driver and guide are wearing jackets and don’t seemed to be bothered at all.  I am wearing my skin out with multiple showers daily.  You probably don’t want to hear about my hygiene issues, but I just don’t get it.

Today was a welcome change from sea days as I have been playing bridge EVERYDAY.  I actually was TEACHING some beginners and novice intermediates about conventions!!  Me, what a joke (hey Carol and Ros, what do you think about that?) although I think I did a good job.

The Patagonia area is HUGE; it is the entire southern mainland.   We were prepared for any type of weather as it is unpredictable and can change instantly.  They say the weather is crazy.  Punta Arenas (translated is Sandy Point) is at the end of the world.  It is very isolated from everything, including government.  It’s like living in Vancouver WA and getting all your election information from the Portland OR television and newspapers.  Folks campaigning for state office rarely visit here.  In order to go north into Chile if you are driving, you need to cross through Argentina first.

It is the second most expensive city in Chile, after Coyhaique.  They have to import most of their produce as the area is not conducive to farming.  They do produce about 5% of their vegetables by growing them in greenhouses, even in summer.  The water temperature in the Strait of Magellan is 37 degrees.  They produce oil and fish, and have recently gotten into raising llama for its fiber.  Sheep farming is big; there are over five million of them. 

My excursion was the Patagonia Experience:  Otway Sound and Penguin Reserve.  The day started off with some sun and was comfortably cool.  We drove along Otway Sound on unpaved bumpy roads through the pampas, flat land with trees bent and stunted from the winds.  Sheep and cows dotted the area.  We also stopped to see the flightless Rhea, an ostrich-like bird and the Crested Caca.  The sky got progressively darker, but the rain held off. 

We arrived where the Magellan penguins live.  I was expecting to see some ice, but the ground was covered in beautiful lichens, moss and pampas grass.  The sand dunes were mounded with burrows and nests everywhere.  Beautiful flora and pampas grass covered the dunes.  And there were penguins in those burrows.  Penguins lay their eggs in the burrows to shield them from foxes and skuas that circle overhead.  The chicks were almost as large as the parent (mom and dad take turns watching the youngster(s) while the other one fishes).  The chicks were furry looking.  We walked on a wooden boardwalk through the burrows and headed out to the viewing area that overlooked the beach.  Penguins were braying and honking, splashing in the water, and of course, I saw the march of the penguins.  Waddle, waddle, waddle.  They marched in perfect formation. 


















Here are some interesting facts about penguins.  I am about to become a penguin expert.  They live around 25-30 years, and they mate for life.   At 5 years of age the penguin will take its first mate.  If a mate dies, the survivor will hook up with another but only for the one season.  Ain’t first love grand!  Penguins cannot swim when they are molting.  Baby chicks are sent apackin’ when they are 60 days old.  They do not ever meet up with their parents again, but they always come back to the place where they were born for the mating season.  Penguins come to waters in the higher latitudes for the light.  They need the long hours of daylight for fishing, reproduction, and nesting.  Males are the first to arrive in early September and make a home for his mate.  A few weeks later, the females arrive and the courting begins.  She lays up to two eggs and while brooding, they take turns guarding the eggs and feeding the young chicks after they hatch as they swim for food every 8 hours.  By the end of March, the penguins move to the coast of Brazil and the Atlantic islands.

Were returned to the ship for lunch, and then hopped on a shuttle to town.  We visited the town square where there was a lovely outdoor market filled with handknit and machine knit items and various junky trinkets. However, I was on a quest to find some vicuna.  There was a yarn shop just one block from the town square and when we arrived, it was CLOSED!!!!!!  Do I have rotten luck or what?  I found the shuttle driver and inquired what the deal was.  Why was a shop closed at 2pm on a Monday?  Simple, they have siesta and long lunch hours.  The shop opened up at 3pm and I was able to shop – finally.  This was a wool shop.  It’s a very basic shop with long needles, no circulars or accessories.  And there was wool – in every color imaginable.  There were a few skeins of llama and even fewer alpaca.  I managed to find one interesting skein of alpaca for US$12.  Now I have to figure out what to do with it since I don’t know what the yardage is.     



We returned to the ship to rest up.  Part of our duties it to host a table in the dining room; tonight it is our turn.  We are scheduled for a total of three this segment.  People sign up to sit at a hosted table (it could be the cruise director, an entertainer, or an officer).  What if no one signed up for our table?  Would be sitting at a large table for 10 by ourselves?  Dinner starts at 7:30pm (oy vey I hate eating late).  As ladies enter the dining room, the stewards give you their arm as they escort you to your table.  How can you refuse a cute young man?  It is a nice touch, especially for the ladies.  Name tags were placed on our table with no spouse sitting next to each other.  Fortunately, our two experiences with hosting were positive and included an interesting mix of people.  Michael even told a few of his good jokes to much acclaim. 

We capped off the evening with an entertaining show.   

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